I would love to write you a detailed description of the uniqueness of experience surrounding dining at Bulrush. I’m honestly dying to set the scene around the exhibition art in the bathroom, the historical wall projections on Ozark cuisine, and the intriguing vibe-shift from bar to dining room. Most interestingly, I’d love to explain Chef Rob’s ideas around “reparative restauranting,” and the projects Bulrush supports towards that effort. But I won’t. Because this is a food-only review.